Old Hippie New to Forum with Questions

[WBgrail]

Hi Folks--I was reading your forum last night and thought I would take a shot at asking questions about Tallahassee. I'm a 40ish single mom returning to grad school in Tallahassee and will be moving there from Colorado in the next couple of months. I'd like to know which part of town is considered "alternative," and if that section is "old town." I"m looking to buy a house soon after arrival, and will be enrolling my girl in the Arts and Sciences Charter School. Ay insight or advice is greatly appreciated.

[insituphoto]

Railroad Square is the artsy section of town with studios, shops, etc. but there's no residences there.

New Leaf Market at the corner of Apalachee Parkway and Magnolia Drive is a popular place for that lifestyle to shop. It's a CO-OP.

I don't know of any residential areas that cater to that lifestyle per se. Call around to some of the businesses that cater to that lifestyle and ask them for recommendations.

[jpl02]

Myers Park perhaps, there are a lot of hippies around there. Older, but nice and quiet. There is also the co-op out in Miccosukee, but that's far out of the city and quite a distance away from amenities.

There's "Old Town" but there's a lot of "old money" there and seems on the conservative side.

Or you could live in the student housing ghetto (j/k!)

[poonther]

Hey WBgrail welcome to Tally! When are you moving here and from where in CO? Tally isn't as liberal as Boulder, but not nearly as conservative as CS.

Old Town is the neighborhood right next to mine (Lafayette Park) and it's a good mix of folks: old, young, liberal, conservative etc. I'd say the most "hippyish" neighborhood in Tally is Indianhead Acres off Magnolia and the Parkway. I think homes are still a tad cheaper in Indianhead than they are in Old Town, however Old Town is closer to the School of Arts and Science which I've always heard good things about. I believe that based on what you've said, you'd be more comfortable in the in-town neighborhoods of Indianhead Acres, Old Town, Lafayette Park, Myer's Park or the neighborhoods off Park and Call just east of downtown.

insituphoto makes some great points about New Leaf (I'm there a lot) and Railroad Square.

Ask us more questions, we'd love to answer them and make your transition easier!

P.S. You do know about the heat and humidity don't you?

[Florida]

The perfect area for your alternative living pleasure would be right around Ruediger Elementary, Raa Middle on streets like 6th -- 10th Avenues. All of the side streets are also alternative. If you can find something in that area try to snatch it up. Very nice, very settled area with a mix of different people young and old. I think it would be a good location for both you and your daughter seeing as how you'd probably want to be close to the Universities and she won't be far from Thomasville Road where the School of Arts and Science is.

[poonther]

The perfect area for your alternative living pleasure would be right around Ruediger Elementary, Raa Middle on streets like 6th -- 10th Avenues. All of the side streets are also alternative. If you can find something in that area try to snatch it up. Very nice, very settled area with a mix of different people young and old. I think it would be a good location for both you and your daughter seeing as how you'd probably want to be close to the Universities and she won't be far from Thomasville Road where the School of Arts and Science is.

Good suggestion TJ I forgot about Levy Park being an option too. I have a friend that lives in that neighborhood and loves it. The homes are usually smaller, but when they come up for sale, they are often snatched up quickly.

[JBarber]

Hi Folks--I was reading your forum last night and thought I would take a shot at asking questions about Tallahassee. I'm a 40ish single mom returning to grad school in Tallahassee and will be moving there from Colorado in the next couple of months. I'd like to know which part of town is considered "alternative," and if that section is "old town." I"m looking to buy a house soon after arrival, and will be enrolling my girl in the Arts and Sciences Charter School. Ay insight or advice is greatly appreciated.

Looking for the alternative, hippie, yet friendly neighborhood? The first (maybe only) place to look will be Myers Park. It is a heavily treed neighborhood from the 50's and 60's less than a mile from the Capitol and convenient to FSU. There is a great natural park - Myers park - in the middle of the neighborhood, and you can walk to Cabo's (hippie-owned, good restaurant) and The New Leaf Market. The only drawback will be getting to Arts & Sciences then FSU (there is no bus service to A&S). It will add 7-10 miles to your commute - not a ton, but still time consuming. After your child is done with A&S you will be in the school zone for Fairview middle and Rickards high - neither are great schools for the average student, but they are the very successful IB schools in Leon County (I'm assuming your daughter is a genius.)

I grew up across Magnolia from Myers Park in Indian Head Acres, which has many of the same features, but probably not as alternative.

I went to friends house in Myers Park to watch the World Cup final. I consider my self a Democrat (moderate) but I felt like Benito freakin Mussolini compared to the other guests that walked over from their houses for the game. To be brief, it was a strong liberal crowd. Glad I did not get a tour of the Italian country side swinging by neck on the back of a train.

btw - my friend in MP is a realtor and lists many of the houses there. I can send his info by PM if you want.

[DaiDreamer5]

Myers Park and the area around Lake Ella are the most progressive places in Tallahasse I think (that still have houses, Railroad Square seems to be studios and apartments). However, most people seem to want to make you pay for this. Rent is cheap in Myers Park, but you'll pay an each 100,000 for the buying a house there.

[poonther]

I grew up across Magnolia from Myers Park in Indian Head Acres, which has many of the same features, but probably not as alternative.

JB I agree w/all that you say except mabye today's Indian Head Acres isn't quite like it was when you were growing up. Not to be stereo-typical, but every "every Birckenstock wearin' Sister of Sappho" I know in Tally lives in I.H.A. I know this b/c many are my friends.

[AlaninTally]

I would agree with poonther. Single female with alternative lifestyle, perspective, whatever would fit right in with Indianhead or Levy Park. They are great neighborhoods.

[WBgrail]

Thanks everyone for your very warm and friendly responses. Very helpful! I'll be printing them out and keeping them in a folder for when I arrive.

I live about 15 miles west of Colorado Springs, 9,000 ft alittude. Very conservative with Focus on the Family and the Military bases. Very white here. Not much diversity. I teach at the college down the mountain but want to return for the big D, and desperately need a warm climate and reasonable housing cost. Colorado is utterly unaffordable and the people, in my opinion, unfriendly. Grew up in Texas near the coast and truly miss the heat and the humidity. It is arid here, and folks quickly mummify!

2 questions: I've gotten mixed information about the population of Tally: some sites say well over 250,000 while others say 130,000. Which is more accurate? Seond question: How's the job market? Can a young-looking 40 something find a stop-gap job easily until she gets connected? (A poor attempt at inferring possible ageism....).

Again, thanks for the input everyone.

[TD]

Thanks everyone for your very warm and friendly responses. Very helpful! I'll be printing them out and keeping them in a folder for when I arrive.

I live about 15 miles west of Colorado Springs, 9,000 ft alittude. Very conservative with Focus on the Family and the Military bases. Very white here. Not much diversity. I teach at the college down the mountain but want to return for the big D, and desperately need a warm climate and reasonable housing cost. Colorado is utterly unaffordable and the people, in my opinion, unfriendly. Grew up in Texas near the coast and truly miss the heat and the humidity. It is arid here, and folks quickly mummify!

2 questions: I've gotten mixed information about the population of Tally: some sites say well over 250,000 while others say 130,000. Which is more accurate? Seond question: How's the job market? Can a young-looking 40 something find a stop-gap job easily until she gets connected? (A poor attempt at inferring possible ageism....).

Again, thanks for the input everyone.

The actual population of the city proper is around 175,000 people. But the metro area is around 300,000 +

The Job market is mostly State Workers and Education. Their are over 50,000 college students here during the school year so most of the low wage jobs are snatched up (restaurants, low level retail) But dont get me wrong we do have small businesses and medium size Private businesses to work for.

Tallahassee is working on diversifying the economy so we dont rely so heavily on state and university jobs, and we have been somewhat succesful of late. We have lured TurboCorp a company that manufacturers A/C compressors... but thats beside the point..

Bottom line you should be able to find work as long as you arent looking for student grunt work.

[poonther]

Great response there DT. He's right about the city pop. and now the metro is up to 360K. I think you'll have no problem finding a "stop-gap" job. The only drawback would be that it may not pay as much as you'd like it to pay.

I think you'll find the folks here in Tally very friendly. Glad you understand about the heat and stupidity...wait scratch that..I mean humidity.

Let us know if you need more info. Be glad to help.

[Florida]

Thanks everyone for your very warm and friendly responses. Very helpful! I'll be printing them out and keeping them in a folder for when I arrive.

I live about 15 miles west of Colorado Springs, 9,000 ft alittude. Very conservative with Focus on the Family and the Military bases. Very white here. Not much diversity. I teach at the college down the mountain but want to return for the big D, and desperately need a warm climate and reasonable housing cost. Colorado is utterly unaffordable and the people, in my opinion, unfriendly. Grew up in Texas near the coast and truly miss the heat and the humidity. It is arid here, and folks quickly mummify!

2 questions: I've gotten mixed information about the population of Tally: some sites say well over 250,000 while others say 130,000. Which is more accurate? Seond question: How's the job market? Can a young-looking 40 something find a stop-gap job easily until she gets connected? (A poor attempt at inferring possible ageism....).

Again, thanks for the input everyone.

To explain the mixup with the numbers: When you arrive you'll quickly see Tallahassee is Leon County's only municipality. Our county population is the 250,000 number you've quoted above. What some reporters do is use that number as Tallahassee's population since the city is basically the county. As TD and Poonther stated above, the population of the City of Tallahassee is 175,000 (7th in Florida behind Jax, Miami, Tampa, St. Pete, Orlando, Ft. Lauderdale). To me it feels like 300,000 during peek driving hours.

You should really like the diversity here. I still think Levy Park is the best area for you.

[WBgrail]

Thanks. You guys are great. 'Twould be fun to meet at some point folks on the forum. Ideally, a person moving across country should visit first but I suppose I'm not very practical. How are the winters? And in what part of town are the neighborhoods you mentioned? southeast? northeast? The past few winters here I've lived on a secluded mountain with lots of bears that aren't much in the way of conversation. No heat save for firewood you chop. Sounds idyllic but its actually a drag, and very hard work. I'm scheduled to move out your ways at the end of August, early September. Flipflops in winter?

[Monticello-1827]

Flipflops in winter?

Flipflops all the time. North Florida is a wonderful place to live.

[JBarber]

Very conservative with Focus on the Family

I teach at the college down the mountain ..... Seond question: How's the job market? Can a young-looking 40 something find a stop-gap job easily until she gets connected? (A poor attempt at inferring possible ageism....).

First, before you come to Tally, please have James Dobson take me off his mailing list.

Second, fish around the jobs section of FSU's website. They are the biggest single employer around (counting the state divisions as separate) and you have college experience. Plus the benefits are unmatched.

[WBgrail]

First, before you come to Tally, please have James Dobson take me off his mailing list.

Second, fish around the jobs section of FSU's website. They are the biggest single employer around (counting the state divisions as separate) and you have college experience. Plus the benefits are unmatched.

I'll let Dobson know....ha!

Do you all consider Tallahassee a walkable or bikeable city? Is bike riding reasonable in winter there? Here there are far too many iced mountains to bike in the winter. ( I feel I should keep my responses within the purpose of urbanplanet, which I suppose is community planning. An important topic that needs more attention. I teach anthropology, and urban planning/socioeconomics plays a large part in class discussions. This is an interesting site. Thanks all!

[Florida]

This is a great community for walking and biking. Most streets have sidewalks and bike lanes. No ice to worry about although there are a few rolling hills.

[BHCav]

Remember that it rains fairly often here so make sure you have a chevrolet to go with the chevrolegs.

[poonther]

I think you'll enjoy biking better in the late fall, winter and early spring. Other times it's pretty tough b/c of the heat. There's a great bike trail on the southside of town called the St. Marks Trail and it's roughly 16 miles, but you don't have to do it all at once. Biking in the southern part of the county is better for the less experienced biker, ME, b/c it's flat.

Most of the neighborhoods they mentioned to you are in the near eastside of town and near north.

We do have seasonal change here in North FL but our seasons are more like this: Summer, Fall, late Fall, early Spring and back to Summer. It does freeze here a few times in the winter, but our cold spells rarely last longer than 3 days before we are back into the upper 60's/low 70's.

[Glenn]

You should also check out Lake Ella in the center of town & all the cool shops, etc. that surround it. As others have mentioned, New Leaf Market at Magnolia & Apalachee Parkway is also a great place to shop for organic foods, etc. Next door to New Leaf is Crystal Conection & Cabo's, both worth checking out.

[psycuda]

As far as the politics goes, there are a fair amount of very liberal types around here (Check out the Tallahassee Progressive Center on Gadsden St to meet many like minded types, as well as at FSU). Keep in mind, however, that this is still the south, so you still have a contingent of closed minded types that tend to show up on weekday afternoons to FSU to yell and scream at the students about how abortion is sin and homosexualty is an abomination. I agree with the above posters, especially with the midtown area being a good place to be for the artsy types due to the bars, coffee shops, galleries that are starting to go in there, and Lake Ella, plus treelined streets to raise a family.

[WBgrail]

I think you'll enjoy biking better in the late fall, winter and early spring. Other times it's pretty tough b/c of the heat. There's a great bike trail on the southside of town called the St. Marks Trail and it's roughly 16 miles, but you don't have to do it all at once. Biking in the southern part of the county is better for the less experienced biker, ME, b/c it's flat.

Most of the neighborhoods they mentioned to you are in the near eastside of town and near north.

We do have seasonal change here in North FL but our seasons are more like this: Summer, Fall, late Fall, early Spring and back to Summer. It does freeze here a few times in the winter, but our cold spells rarely last longer than 3 days before we are back into the upper 60's/low 70's.

Oh my god that sounds wonderful.

Hills there----are we talking 10-story hills? I'm trying to picture elevation in terms of hills. If I read it correctly, the capitol building is perched on the highest hill in Tallahassee.

[WBgrail]

As far as the politics goes, there are a fair amount of very liberal types around here (Check out the Tallahassee Progressive Center on Gadsden St to meet many like minded types, as well as at FSU). Keep in mind, however, that this is still the south, so you still have a contingent of closed minded types that tend to show up on weekday afternoons to FSU to yell and scream at the students about how abortion is sin and homosexualty is an abomination. I agree with the above posters, especially with the midtown area being a good place to be for the artsy types due to the bars, coffee shops, galleries that are starting to go in there, and Lake Ella, plus treelined streets to raise a family.

Thanks for the detail. Yes, we have a lot of hate groups here as well which preach on streets around the downtown group. I think there is quite a conservative element throughout this country As a side note, I was on a website the other night that listed liberal-friendly cities and towns as well as liberal-unfriendly ones Tallahassee was on the friendly list. I guess I'm a liberal, although its definition varies depending on who you talk to. I'm more of an eccentric than a "sister of sappho." HA! I love that line! Maybe from Taurean.

I think you'll enjoy biking better in the late fall, winter and early spring. Other times it's pretty tough b/c of the heat. There's a great bike trail on the southside of town called the St. Marks Trail and it's roughly 16 miles, but you don't have to do it all at once. Biking in the southern part of the county is better for the less experienced biker, ME, b/c it's flat.

Most of the neighborhoods they mentioned to you are in the near eastside of town and near north.

We do have seasonal change here in North FL but our seasons are more like this: Summer, Fall, late Fall, early Spring and back to Summer. It does freeze here a few times in the winter, but our cold spells rarely last longer than 3 days before we are back into the upper 60's/low 70's.

What exactly does that mean: "Tallahassee: Escape the Peninsula" ? Thanks again. Sounds wonderful.